Home > Fitness, Self Experimentation, Training > Client Numero Uno – Baselines

Client Numero Uno – Baselines

There is a saying stating that which gets measured gets improved.  For this reason alone it’s good motivation to measure performance against some desired goal.  In addition it gives a hard target to hit and judge progress.  The effectiveness of training without measurable performance will be almost certainly subjective to a fault.  It’s possible fudge a performance factor, but with a little rigor, that risk can be greatly mitigated.

So for the next month we’ll be focusing on two performance factors.  This sort of narrow focus reduces the likelihood of becoming overwhelmed or distracted.  Looking back at CNU’s goals we decided to focus on improving body composition and improving rock climbing performance.  Luckily these two things are very measurable.

Body Composition:

To determine body composition with some modicum of reliability I have decided to use circumferences and weight.  Current CNU has quite a bit of fat deposited around the abdomen and chest.  Fat, as it is some times pointed out is less dense than muscle and putting on more muscle and having less fat is the direction we want to head.  This will be indicated by decreasing body circumferences (such as waist size) and increasing lean weight.  It is often very frustrating to start an exercise or diet program and see no progress on the scale.  This can sometimes be due to the addition of muscle mass.  Using both weight and circumference offers another indicator of progress which can help from a mental standpoint.

I’m using a sum total of the measurements at the navel, waist, chest and thighs.  I’m using a sum total just because it gives one number to track which is simpler and it “protects the innocent.”

Baseline Measurements:

Circumference: 180inches

Weight: 231.2lb

The second performance factor is peak climbing performance.  This is going to be measured in two ways a peak bouldering performance and peak top rope performance.  Now, while the grading system is nationally recognized it’s still a subjective grading system.  The bouldering system is rated from V0, V1 and so on.  The top rope system starts at 5.6 goes to 5.7 and so on.  There are some grades, starting a 5.10, which have subgrades, such as 5.10a through 5.10d etc.  Now the fact of the matter is some 5.9s are harder than some 5.10s and likewise for the bouldering routes.  With that in mind I’m going to try to be as objective as possible

Baseline Top Rope Skill: 5.10a

Baseline Bouldering Skill: V1-

So tomorrow is CNUs first time since starting the new training program to do top rope climbing.  Tomorrow will be a maximum effort attempt; he’ll work to get the highest graded climb possible.  The hope is to achieve a 5.10b or better.  These high grade efforts often end in failure to complete the route and are very taxing resulting in few climbs before fatigue sets in.  These efforts have to be balanced against lower intensity sessions.  The bouldering session later this week will also be a maximum effort session.  Next weeks sessions will focus on maximum number of assents at the highest level possible but with the aim of no failed routes.  This will be an attempt to brush the upper limit while still getting a larger volume of effort under CNU’s belt.

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